Last year, Adriana Brownlee climbed to the summit of Manaslu. Upon investigation, however, it was determined she was a few feet away from the true summit. To be accredited for the climb for the record books, she has to re-climb to the actual summit. As Brownlee returned to Manaslu base camp, I struggled to watch this extremely tough climbing season on Manaslu, replete with tragedy and death.
The extreme skier Hilaree Nelson was killed in an avalanche whilst descending from Camp 2. Hilaree inspired many, and her loss was felt through the base camp community. The constant heavy snowfall and avalanches created unpredictable climbing conditions. I was worried for Brownlee. As she began her second ascent, another tragedy struck at Camp 3; Dawa Sherpa died in an avalanche at Camp 2. Brownlee and her team made the smart decision to abandon the second climb on Manaslu.
I caught up with Brownlee at Lukla as she and Kristen Harila prepared to attempt the next mountain Cho Oyu. Sadly, it has been very difficult for them to get permits to climb from the Chinese side, which is the usual route. They created Plan B to attempt a new route from the Nepalese side that has been successfully climbed only once.
Brownlee is inspiring and an asset to any brand. It is essential for her to get additional sponsorship in order to complete her climb. Writing about her incredible climbs and accomplishments brings greater awareness to potential new sponsors. I hope this interview highlights her strength, incredible feats and plans.
Was this time on Manaslu different weather-wise from the start? Did you have any bad feelings about the climb, or did it all seem fine?
From when we arrived to when we left Manaslu, there were two days of clear weather. It was pouring down during our puja ceremony, where we received blessings before heading up the mountain. It just felt like every moment; the mountain was telling us to leave. Last year we had amazing weather, most days at base camp, we were relaxing outside and enjoying our time, but this time really did feel different.
There seemed to be a huge amount of people in Manaslu. Were there as much last time you climbed it? How was the atmosphere in camp?
Last year there was probably half the amount of people at base camp. When we were climbing, we barely saw anyone other than our team members. It was so peaceful and stress-free. Our team was small, only five of us, and it felt like a family. However, this time on SST camp, there were more than 100 clients and creating a close group was actually quite hard. Either people already had a friend they were climbing with or kept to themselves.
Tragically, we lost an amazing woman climber, skier and mother, Hilaree Nelson, on the mountain. Do you think skiing the mountain is more treacherous than a normal climb? And sadly, Dawa Chiriring also died in an avalanche. Were people still comfortable climbing, given the vast snowfall and unstable conditions? I believe you were at Camp 3 when this happened.
This year we lost so many good people. Hilaree was a role model to so many and inspired women across the world with her passion and skill. Unfortunately, her profession comes with great risk, and skiing, especially in these snow conditions, would’ve been incredibly hard and dangerous.
Each time you hear of a death within the climbing community, it cuts away at another piece of your heart. These people, who are here for the same reason as you, at the same place and at the same time, were unlucky. There is nothing you can do. It could’ve been you. But this is why we are climbers: we are so stubborn-minded. We don’t let these things stop us from doing what we love, and we wrap up that piece of fear that creeps in for a second or two and pack it away in the back of our minds, and we keep climbing. We will never forget those beautiful people who passed away, and now we summit these mountains for them and hope that they are watching down and keeping us safe.
Why did you feel you had to go back up to the true summit when you had already summited Manaslu?
There is always external pressure from social media. I don’t know why I gave in to it. I know that once I finish this project, there will always be people who say I never summited Manaslu. Even though I was only 2 metres below the true summit point and went through the same effort, time and determination as I would’ve done if I went to the true summit, they will never accept it. And maybe I won’t either.
You are now climbing with Kristen Harila, who is competing with Nim’s unbelievable world record. I have to say I did not think it would be challenged so quickly, and I am very impressed it's by a woman. I know you have teamed up to climb Cho Oyu. Can you tell us a bit about the new route?
This is such an exciting opportunity. I finally get to climb with a female climbing partner, and we have similar yet different goals, which is perfect. We are here to support each other and reach this summit of Cho Oyu. Tibet is currently closed, so we cannot climb from the Tibetan side, which is the regular and much easier route for Cho Oyu. This time we are tackling from the Nepal Side (Thame Village), a route that has never been climbed before. A similar route by a Polish team in 1985 was successful. We are optimistic and feeling strong so let’s see.
What is the plan after Cho Oyu? Do you have a Plan B for Shishapagma?
I am not totally sure about Shishapangma yet. Kristin and I have spoken about teaming up for it again after Cho Oyu; however, it's all about permits and, of course, getting funding from my sponsors. But I cross my fingers we can go together, and I can support Kristin on her final 8000er
I heard there were many women climbers on Manaslu. Why the big increase in women climbers recently?
I believe women are attracted to mountaineering because it’s dangerous, and we love a bit of danger. We want to prove to everyone that we are just as capable as others. And so we put ourselves in these harsh environments and achieve incredible things, and it makes us feel good inside. Seeing this growth is cool; it gives me many ideas for future women's teams. Hopefully, we can continue to prove our mental and physical strength and enjoy the beautiful mountains.